中国·福州——热爱城市从热爱美食开始

Citizens and tourists are buying rice cakes at the Bindeqiao Cake Shop. (Photo by Reporter Yan Lanping)

Yuanxiao, rice noodles, pot side paste, and braised duck... Taijiang District has been a bustling hub for merchants since ancient times, earning its reputation as a “golden land” and a “treasure bowl.” The region’s economic prosperity has given rise to a wealth of time-honored snack shops. These establishments, nurtured through generations of dedication, carry a deep historical heritage and offer distinctive local flavors. At the same time, they have adapted to the changing times, continuously attracting new waves of food enthusiasts.

Preserve the happiness of taste through craftsmanship

On the morning of the 12th, Lin Yingde, the inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Erlongbo yuanxiao making technique, and his son Lin Wei were busy making yuanxiao. With each press and fold, the round yuanxiao took shape, one after another. “We stay open as usual during the Spring Festival, and the shop is always full of customers,” they said.

Erlongbo yuanxiao, first created during the Guangxu era, has been passed down through generations, becoming a popular century-old brand in Fuzhou. What is the secret behind this simple bowl of yuanxiao that keeps the people of Fuzhou coming back for more? According to information, Erlongbo yuanxiao making technique has been included in the sixth batch of intangible cultural heritage representative projects in Fujian Province. In addition to its thin, elastic skin and generous, savory filling, its delicate yet chewy texture, flavorful, non-greasy taste, and unique “popping” sensation when bitten are key reasons for its enduring popularity.

In order to preserve the authentic taste of yuanxiao, Lin Yingde and his son are very particular about the selection of ingredients. They use high-quality glutinous rice and round-grained non-glutinous rice to prepare the rice paste for the skin, and select fresh pork hind leg meat for the filling, with a perfect balance of fat and lean. The meat is tender and flavorful, rich in collagen, which allows the yuanxiao to absorb the flavors better. “Every step, from soaking and grinding the rice to draining, dividing, and preparing the filling, requires careful attention and years of experience.”

Every Lantern Festival, the people of Fuzhou flock to “Erlongbo” to buy yuanxiao. These simple rice balls represent more than just a flavor -- they carry the deep hopes of Fuzhou people for family reunion and togetherness.

For the native people of Fuzhou, nothing compares to the classic combination of a bite of rice noodles and a taste of braised delicacies. Ruan Wenjie, the inheritor of Anping Yijie Mixed Rice Noodles on Yingdong Road in Taijiang District, has spent 35 years, with dedication and craftsmanship, preserving the authentic taste of mixed rice noodles, a beloved tradition among the people of Fuzhou.

Anping Yijie Mixed Rice Noodles making technique has been included in the third batch of intangible cultural heritage representative projects in Taijiang District. This technique has been passed down for nearly a century, starting with Ruan Wenjie’s grandmother. Ruan Wenjie said, he has been helping at the shop since he was a child. He has mastered the cooking and mixing techniques for dried rice noodles passed down from his grandmother, Wu Yimei, and continued to make innovations, making the noodles more authentic and reflective of local flavors.

Yijie Mixed Rice Noodles uses rice noodles sourced from Lianjiang, enhanced with lard to achieve a chewy yet smooth texture. The broth is made by slowly simmering pork liver edge, pork bones, and free-range chicken over low heat for hours, resulting in a clear, bright color and a rich, savory flavor. Additionally, ingredients such as pork kidney, pork heart, intestines, oysters, and squid are thoroughly cleaned and briefly blanched in the broth to ensure the optimal taste.

Mei Ya Bo Hua Sheng Tang, made with carefully selected, plump peanuts, boasts a rich, sweet flavor and a tender, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Zhonghui Braised Duck uses freshly roasted duck with a glossy, golden skin that is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Lungong No. 1 Pan-Fried Pork Buns, born from the labor traditions of the dockside era, have been passed down through generations and remain a beloved delicacy… In Taijiang, these long-standing snack shops are like hidden gems scattered throughout the streets and alleys, together creating the enduring essence of “Fuzhou flavor.” Simple in appearance yet deeply comforting, they have become a steady source of happiness for many, offering a sense of warmth with every bite.

Time-honored brands embrace new trends

On Nanyuan Road in Cangxia New City, there is a century-old Fuzhou-style snack shop, Bindeqiao Cake Shop. The counter is filled with an array of signature delights, such as Jiuchong Cake, Annan Cake, and Mati Cake, drawing a constant flow of customers.

“What’s even more challenging than preserving tradition is continuously adapting to the changing times. ‘Maintain tradition without being outdated, innovate while maintaining the essence, and integrate without merely copying’ -- this is the essence of a time-honored brand,” said Pan Min, the fourth-generation inheritor of the Bindeqiao cake making technique in Fuzhou. Traditional cakes and pastries are often defined by their sweetness, but the eating habits of modern people have quietly changed. Bindeqiao Cake Shop keeps up with the times by reducing the sugar content in some of its products.

The “trendiness” of time-honored brands is also reflected in their fresh approach, as they better understand the “emotional value” that resonates with young people. Outside the shop, the slogan “Fuzhou Cakes Are Truly Sweet” catches the eye, drawing many people to take photos with it. In his spare time, Pan Min enjoys exploring the fusion of Western pastry culture with traditional Chinese tea snacks. This not only caters to the tastes of young customers but also opens up new possibilities for the shop’s development.

Zheng Bingchun, Chairman of Fuzhou Shanggan Catering Co., Ltd., also deeply resonates with this. In his view, time-honored brands must strike a balance between tradition and innovation for their development. While preserving its unique and authentic flavor, Shanggan Snacks has worked on innovating its management, diversifying its promotional efforts, and enhancing its brand. In recent years, the company has promoted its products through both online and offline channels, expanding into trade exhibitions, supermarkets, Taobao Mall, and international markets, thereby broadening the reach of its product sales.

Founded in 1856, Zhengsenji is actively engaging with online platforms such as Meituan and Pupu to introduce the brand to the youth market. “Our pre-packaged foods come with a sauce packet. Consumers can place orders online and cook at home, enjoying a flavor that’s nearly identical to what they would get in the store,” said Huang Yuhui, the fifth-generation inheritor of Zhengsenji.

“Traditional marketing and reach methods are facing changes, and time-honored brands often lack experience in multidimensional market competition, which has made their development somewhat sluggish,” said Huang Yuhui. The new business form of “online ordering and offline delivery within 30 minutes” could be a new development path for time-honored brands.

Facilitate the bid for City of Gastronomy

Not long ago, the “Millennium Fujian Cuisine for Global Sharing” – Fuzhou’s Bid for “City of Gastronomy” Fujian Cuisine Promotion Conference was held in Macao, guided by the Fuzhou Municipal Government and organized by the Fuzhou Municipal Bureau of Commerce. At the event, Lin Yingde demonstrated how to make yuanxiao. The rich, savory aroma and lively atmosphere attracted many food lovers. Seeing the overwhelming popularity of Erlongbo yuanxiao, Lin Yingde felt both happiness and a greater sense of responsibility.

In recent years, Lin Yingde has actively participated in various events in cities such as Beijing, Shunde, and Huai’an to promote and preserve Fuzhou’s intangible cultural heritage cuisine. Through thoughtfully organized feasts and gatherings that bring together people from all walks of life, he has introduced the charm of Fuzhou’s traditional snacks to more and more people. “We hope to spread Fuzhou’s unique specialties nationwide, enabling more people to appreciate the culinary techniques and culture of Fujian cuisine, and to help expand the reach of Fujian’s culinary culture,” said Lin Yingde.

Pan Min is dedicated to the continued preservation and promotion of Fuzhou’s culinary culture. During the “I am a Little Inheritor” 2025 Intangible Cultural Heritage Winter Camp, organized by the Fuzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture and Tourism, Pan Baoqiu and Pan Min, the inheritors of the Bindeqiao cake making technique, shared with the children the history, eating traditions, and cooking techniques of Fuzhou cakes. “Fuzhou snacks contain rich cultural elements such as seasonal festivals and folk customs. I want more people to learn about Fuzhou’s culinary culture,” said Pan Min. (Fuzhou Daily Reporter: Yan Lanping)